Northern Ohio Live, April 2007

Executive chef Matthew Mytro is a true treasure in this city/suburb border neighborhood. Having worked with former Boulevard Blue executive chef Scott Wuennemann and several others of note, Mytro has developed a spectacular sense of taste, harmony and presentation. After choosing from an impressive drink list, try the crap spring roll, with its artful pools of light guacamole sauce, chunks of goat cheese, slices of avocado and yuzu (Asian citrus fruit) dipping sauce, topped with tiny cilantro leaves resembling an editable Chia Pet. The scored rare tuna, covered with the lightest fried sweet potato shavings you can imagine, melts in your mouth. Salads include a roasted beer and apple tower peaked with arugula, blue cheese and a surprisingly snappy vinaigrette. Order the Kobe burger and see what genetically superior beef is all about, topped by four-year-old Wisconsin cheddar, bacon, lettuce and tomato. Meat lovers will also fall for the 24-hour braised short ribs, thick slabs covered with grilled ramps, resting on a bed of risotto and jus. Other entrees include salmon, shellfish, tenderloin and roasted organic chicken breast. If you visit on Friday or Saturday, you can soak up the live blues music while deciding on dessert, or come early and stroll the neighborhood for antiques, books or artwork.